You always want what you can't have. To wit: People with naturally fine hair usually wish it was thicker, while those with thick hair yearn for theirs to be finer. Sigh. But if you’re on the flat-fighting side and have had a major falling out with your hair recently because it’s too sleek, too fine, too lifeless, too URGH, take a deep breath and step away from the mirror for a minute. Because you want something that you CAN have.
While we can’t change the natural texture of your hair, we can give you some useful tips on how to make it look thicker than it really is. Some might see this as cheating. We like to call it essential information for anyone whose flat hair has them on the edge. From how to style it up, to the sneaky snip tricks to ask for at the salon, read on to discover how easy it is to give fine hair a boost.
The Cut
It’s amazing what clever illusions your hairstylist can create with a simple trim. “You want to try to keep as much of the weight as possible to create a full, voluminous look,” says Lauren Benjamin, head of NVQ education at Headmasters. “Ask for a style with a strong base line and clean, sharp edges.” Stay clear of layers: “Some people think that they give the impression of fuller hair but if they are too short, it’s hard to get volume into the blow dry, meaning the hair will lie flatter,” Luke Benson, artistic director at D&J Ambrose says. On shorter ‘dos, he advises to ask for lots of texture. “A finishing product like wax clay will then give the hair more height afterwards.”
Photo: David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock.
The Tools
While they may seem old-fashioned, Velcro rollers are actually brilliant for lifting up roots. “Blow dry your hair in sections, without making any partings,” advises Benjamin. “Wrap each top section around the roller while the hair is still warm. Once it has completely cooled, the hair will set in its elevated position creating more volume when the roller is removed.” Try DryBar's High Tops Velcro Rollers.
Have a styling wand close by, too. “Giving your hair a curl or wave adds width and movement, giving the appearance of thicker hair,” says Lauren. Try Bedhead's Styling Wand.
Photo: Courtesy of DryBar.
The Color
Similarly, your hair hue can easily trick people into thinking your hair is naturally thick. “Avoid all-over color as this doesn’t show off any texture and can look flat,” explains Benson. “Darker panels or low lights will help to add dimension and depth to the hair,” says Jack Howard at Paul Edmonds and L’Oréal Professionnel UK color spokesperson. “For those who prefer to stay [one-color] blond, ask your colorist to add some darker blond tones throughout your hair for a multi-dimensional, thicker looking finish,” he adds. If you regularly color your hair, treat it to a weekly hydrating hair mask, as brittle ends can make fine hair look even thinner.
Photo: Lovekin/WWD/REX/Shutterstock.
The Products
Get your flat-hair kit in check. “Hair powders are perfect for adding volume at the root, and a volumizing spray is ideal for fine hair as it’s so light-weight,” says Jamie Stevens, celebrity hair stylist. “A hairspray helps to make volume last as long as possible.” But the secret weapon is dry shampoo — fine hair or not. “The professional ones have moved on so much that they’re no longer just about covering greasy hair,” explains Benson. “They leave a powdery foundation on the root that helps the blow dry last longer, preventing the hair from flattening, plus the gritty texture gives a fuller finish.”
We like Unite's Expanda Dust and Sachajuan's Volume Powder.
Photo: Courtesy of Unite.
The Blow Dry
Fun fact: volume starts in the shower, long before you blow dry. “Try the "reverse shampoo," advises Benson. That means conditioning your hair first, then washing it. “It helps rough up the hair shaft leaving it with more volume, with the added benefit of having been conditioned.” Then, once you’ve applied the necessary products, the hard work is down to your blow dry technique. “Take a section of hair and, as you dry, pull it directly up at a 90 degree angle from the head, using a large round brush,” explains Stevens. “Roll the brush down from the ends towards your roots, hold it there, then blast with cool air before unwrapping and leaving it to cool. Do that all over and the volume will stay at the root because of how you’ve lifted your hair as you’ve dried it.”
Photo: David Fisher/REX/Shutterstock.
Like this post? There's more. Get tons of beauty tips, tutorials, and news on the Refinery29 Beauty Facebook page. Like us on Facebook — we'll see you there!
Like what you see? How about some more R29 goodness, right here?
7 Dry Shampoos That Will Change How You Don't Wash Your Hair